THE REVIEW OF KARAVSHIN ROUTES OF THE REGION
| Tuesday 26th January 2010 07:21pm 1 | ||
|---|---|---|
 vlad55 1 Posts |
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</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><strong><span
style="color: #333333;">Asan</span></strong><span
style="color: #333333;"></span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 27pt; text-align: justify;
text-indent: -18pt;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span
style="font-family: Symbol; color:
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</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><strong><span
style="color:
#333333;">Slesova</span></strong><strong><span
style="color: #333333;">
Peak</span></strong><span style="color:
#333333;"></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"
style="margin-left: 27pt; text-align: justify; text-indent:
-18pt;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span
style="font-family: Symbol; color:
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</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><strong><span
style="color:
#333333;">4810</span></strong><strong><span
style="color: #333333;">
Peak</span></strong><span style="color:
#333333;"></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"
style="margin-left: 27pt; text-align: justify; text-indent:
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</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><strong><span
style="color:
#333333;">Piramidalny</span></strong><strong><span
style="color: #333333;">
Peak</span></strong><strong><span
style="color: #333333;">, the highest point of the
region</span></strong><span style="color:
#333333;"></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"
style="margin-left: 27pt; text-align: justify; text-indent:
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</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><strong><span
style="color:
#333333;">Ortotyubek</span></strong><span
style="color: #333333;"></span></p> <p
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</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><strong><span
style="color: #333333;">Kyrkchilta (4507
<span>м</span>)- 1000<sup>th</sup>
Anniversary of<span> </span>Russia Christening
</span></strong><span style="color:
#333333;"></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"
style="margin-left: 27pt; text-align: justify; text-indent:
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</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><strong><span
style="color: #333333;">Ptitsa
(Bird)</span></strong></p> <p
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style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span
style="color: #333333;"> </span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span style="color: #333333;">
</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:
justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span style="color:
#333333;"> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"
style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span>“</span><span
style="font-size: 20pt; color:
red;">Karavshin”</span><span> region is
geographically situated in Turkestan Range, westerner Matcha
Mountain Junction. It’s politically and administratively
situated in Batkent district of Osh region of Kyrgyzstan. It can be
got by helicopter or by on foot in the region. Getting here you
cross 3 countries. Usually it can be started from Tashkent
(Uzbekistan). Throughout Isfara town you drive up to Vorukh
settlement (Tadjikistan). From here go up along the gorge of
Karavshin River. Here you can rent cartage. There are 50 km or 1,5
day journey from Vorukh up to the base camp. It can be driven first
10 km by car, further on foot. Frisky alpinists can reach during a
day. The most part of the way is a scorched Karavshiy Gorge. Then
along Djaupaya River, omitting apricot garden and passing by
abandoned stony saklyas, you get to Karasu or Aksu Gorges buried in
verdure, depending on choosing by you summit. This is Kyrgyzstan
now.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"
style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>
</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:
justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>There are 62 climbing
routes of superior (6B) category of difficulty (c.o.d.) on the
territory of CIS. If it seems to you that it is very many ones, so
imagine to yourself that they are scattered on the huge spaces of
the Caucasus, Pamir, Pamiro-Alay and Tien-Shan. However there is a
place where they are really a lot and its name is Karavshiy in
alpinist world. 14 routes from this series are developed to the
summits of two neighboring gorges, Aksu and Karasu, the sizes of
them are not big, and at request they both can be traveled over
during a day. The region was given a name from the name of the
river, in which Aksu and Karasu waters flows into it at last, it is
situated in Kyrgyzstan. (On writing the article the routes
classification for 1998 are used. Since 1999 the classification has
been changed.)</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"
style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>
</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:
justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span><span>
</span>In general all summits of the region are rocky, the
walls are plumb. If snow is lingered on shelves, so it’s
quickly thawed and that’s why it’s necessary to
take water on ascension. The rock is monolithic, granite slabs in
general. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"
style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span>This region was discovered twice by
alpinists. For the first time it was in 1936. The geologists proved
tin bed and got alpinists to take part in rendering of practical
and consulting assistance. Among the alpinists working with them
were the brothers Yevgeniy and Vitaliy Abalakovs. Beside them some
famous alpinists worked in Asan Gorge: Valentina Cheredova, Alexey
Maleinov, Yevgeniy Timashov, Austrian alpinist and communist lived
that time in USSR – Lents Saladin and etc. They are based
in Tanygen Gorge, and at the end of the season they made an attempt
of ascension on Piramidalny Peak (5509 m), nobly
closing<span> </span>picturesque Karasu Gorge. But they
couldn’t ascend, they aren’t had enough time.
The summits of the region are remained untapped for 50 years yet.
</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:
justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>
</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:
justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>
</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:
justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>
</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:
justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>Second time the
alpinists discovered the region in 1986. That year the rocky class
of the championship of USSR was held on extra-mural formula and it
was necessary a new object of ascension. The walls of Yarydag Peak,
4200 Peak were developed and it’s requested some new.
Three teams of “Odessa”,
“Dnepropetrovsk” and
“Planeta” (Rostov) alpinist clubs notified
unknown to the most people region and represented the photos of the
object of ascension with exotic name
“Asan”.</span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span> </span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span> </span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span> </span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span>Thus three first routes are developed on
Asan (4230 m): on the center of North-west wall (M. Gorbenko) and
two under the name of on North-west wall (S. Moroz and A.
Pogorelov). Those ascensions were awarded 3 prizes places of USSR
championship.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"
style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>
</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:
justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>By present the region
is developed well. About 50 routes are developed to it’s
summits. More than half of them are 6 category of difficulty
(c.o.d.) (12 routes – 6A c.o.d., 14 routes – 6B
c.o.d.). The most popular summits were and are Asan, Slesova and
4810. All of them are notable as by the routes quantity developed
on its walls, as by the quantity of ascensions accomplishing on
them. Each of these summits determined a vogue of it’s
class ascensions in it’s time.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span> </span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><strong><span style="font-size: 18pt; color:
red;">Asan</span></strong><strong><span>
</span></strong><span>was a visit card of the
region in </span><span>1986-88. At present 7 routes are
developed to the summit, 6 of them are run on the plumb North-west
wall, having an altitude drop more than 700 m. In 1988 2 routes
were added on the center of North wall of 6B category of
difficulty, by Rusyaev A. and Timofeev C. Timofeev’s
route in “6B” rang was popular, however in 1993
it was appreciated as 6A c.o.d. and it’s popularity was
declined in this rang. <em>At present the most popular routes
of the summit it’s the route on the center of North-west
wall of 6B c.o.d. (Rusyaev, 1988) and the route on the left part of
North-west wall of 6A c.o.d. <span>(Pogorelov - Moroz,
1986).</span></em></span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span> </span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span>In 1988 Slesova Peak pressed Asan Peak, the
leader of rocky class. This summit is viewed as a plumb monolithic
tower from Aksu Gorge.</span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span> </span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span>Not by chance foreigners called it Russian
Tower. The history of revelation of this tower with an altitude
drop of 800 m somewhat reminds a history of revelation of Asan.
4240 Peak is situated in the neighboring gorge, literally 2 hours
way from Asan Peak, but in spite of it 2 years more after
Asan’s revelations it’s stayed infamous. (4240
Peak – it is official geographical name of the
summit.<span> </span>Rostovites gave it a name
“Slesova Peak”, in memory of their countryman,
famous climber Ivan Slesov).</span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span> </span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span>The first wall ascensions to the summit
were accomplished the teams of the following alpine clubs:
“Planet” (Rostov-on-Don), the leadership
Pogorelov A., and “Dnepr” (Dnepropetrovsk), the
leadership Moroz S., within the limits of country championship, won
1 and 2 places in accordance of the results of ascensions. These
routes on North wall of 6B c.o.d. are the most popular.
<em>At present Moroz’s route are the most developed
and visited. </em>The shelf, which is fitted for tent
setting, divides the route on 2 parts. Thereby the route is well
suited a la classic tactic of wall ascensions, whet it’s
previously prepared and traced with ropes so much, it can be come
out on the shelf without overnight staying after it.<span>
</span>From the shelf the tactic is reiterated. Such kind of
ascension model is used on Asan. If there aren’t any
shelves on the route, alpinists have to take with themselves a
platform and hammocks for overnight staying organization. Such kind
of routes on Slesova Peak are Klenov’s and
Pogorelov’s route. <em>Klenov’s route
<span>(1993) on the right part of North-west wall is
considered the most complex one on Slesova Peak, and as I know,
it’s still reiterated.
</span></em></span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span> </span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span>At present 6 routes are developed to the
summit, 3 of them are 6B category. The route of Semiletkin from
Leningrad of 6A c.o.d. on the center of North wall is added to
already known routes in 1993. And a year earlier Spaniards
developed the route on the left part of North wall. Their leader
Migel Angel Galego is a quite famous Spanish alpinist having the
experience of ascensions to the famous walls El Kapitana and Trango
Tower. There are some more variants of earliest ascensions to the
summit. Valeriy Babanov made the attempt to accomplish a premiere
in solo style in 1994.</span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span> </span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><strong><span style="font-size: 16pt; color:
red;">If Asan Peak was a visit card of Karavshin in 1986-88, so
at present 4810 Peak mostly plays such
role.</span></strong></p> <p class="MsoNormal"
style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>
</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:
justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>It’s noted
among the summits of the region as the routes quantity (14), as its
difficulty also. The summit has two plumb walls, Eastern with an
altitude drop 1000 m and a wall terminating into Karasu Gorges with
an altitude drop – 1200 m. In contrast to Asan and
Slesova Peaks there wasn’t any intrigue in its
revelation. The first ascension on the peak was accomplished by
Odessian alpinists all alone in 1986. Mikhail Sitnik’s
group has climbed on North ridge to the summit from Karasu. By the
way it’s the one simple route to the summit, if it can be
called the route of 5B c.o.d.</span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span> </span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span>Accomplishing of Western and North-west
walls of 4810 Peak has become a real pilgrimage in 1988. By that
time all alpinists have already known about the being of monolithic
wall without visible relief. It’s possible, that also the
panel of judges of the championship of the country oriented
themselves on it in technical class. The formula of its holding
allowed to all top-level alpinists to gather in the region of
Karasu Gorge. Such organizing preparation has given its results.
That year 7 routes of 6 category of difficulty were developed. All
prize places of championship of the country in technical class were
given to the ascensions accomplished on 4810 Peak. <span>
</span>The team from Leningrad under the direction of Rusyaev
Alexey was run on the “mirror” of Western wall
and has taken the 1 place.<span> </span>The second team
from Leningrad under the direction of Kritsuk Alexey has run on the
center of North-west wall - 2<sup>nd </sup>place. The
team from the Ukraine, the director Gennadiy Kopeyka, on
North-</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"
style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>
</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:
justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>west wall –
3<sup>d</sup> place. <em>At present</em>
<em>6 routes of 6B category of difficulty were developed
<span>from the side of Karasu Gorge. <span>
</span></span></em><span>Beside the
above-mentioned routes these are routes on the center of North-west
wall of Voronov A. (1988)</span>, Igolkin V. (1990) and
Sakharov K. (1994). The routes of 6A c.o.d. (Ovcharenko S.,
Nazarenko O. and Skripko V. all in 1988) are developed on the right
edging of North-west wall.</span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span> </span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><em><span>Alexey Rusyaev’s route
is the most popular. </span></em><span>With
</span><span>all its dignities (the popularity of the
summit and 6B rang), it attracts alpinists by possibility of most
part of the route by free climbing and availability of 3 shelves on
the route. The difficulty of climbing is on 7A level according to
French category. The speed record of Rusyaev’s route
accomplishing belongs to the team of Donetsk in 1995 – 28
running hours, 2 overnight stays. The word
“popular” isn’t necessary to
understand literally. It does not absolutely mean that ones stand
in a queue since the morning. For 10 years this route was run no
more than 12 groups. However there are some alpinists who run it
twice, perhaps with a goal of result improving. Alpinists from
Donetsk are differing by it. </span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span> </span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span>1989 was a year of revelation of Eastern
wall of 4810 Peak. The team of “Odessa” alpine
club under direction of Mikhail Sitnik developed the route of 6B
c.o.d. on the center of the wall. Beside the premiere of wall
running there was one more thing in a certain sense. The ascension
wasn’t accomplished within the limits of the championship
of the country that is unusual for a wall of such level.
Vedernikov’s team accomplished the earliest running of 6A
c.o.d. on Eastern wall also.</span><span style="font-size:
1pt;"><br />
</span><span></span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><a
href="http://old.risk.ru/rus/projects/bigwall/4810/index.html"><span
style="font-size: 14pt; color: red;">The most difficult route of
the region</span><span>
</span></a><span><span>
</span><span>was run in 1995 by a pair from
Saint-Petersburg Odintsov A. and Borikhin I. Their premiere has bee
lasted 11 days. The absence of shelves in the first third part of
the route compelled the earliest explorers to find time for
processing for than usually. One of the main problems of run
“diretissima” was broken upper part of rock,
which alpinists called “metamorphizing
crust”.</span></span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span> </span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span>If to follow P. Shabalin’s rate
table, so the following routes according to the rang of difficulty
are the routes of K. Sakharov (Moscow) on North-west wall and the
routes of A. Klenov (Yekaterinburg)<span> </span>on
Eastern wall, run by him in 1993. Muscovites made their first
attempt to run their route in 1993, however they had to stepped
back that year. They could finish started thing just next year.
This is the leftmost route on North-west wall, without any shelves
for overnight stays and they run it almost fully by climbing with
ITE. This route also as Odintsov’s route isn’t
still reiterated.<span> </span>Voronov’s
route isn’t still reiterated.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span> </span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span>It’s impossible to describe all
summits of the region, however there are some summits, which
it’s impossible not to notice. Mainly it’s
Piramidalny Peak, the highest point of the region.
</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:
justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span><br />
</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:
justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>
</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:
justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>It’s
stimulated alpinists’ interest as far back as 1936,
however it was run just in 1987 (on Eastern spur, 5 c.o.d., Nazarov
O.), and in 1989 the Central spur of North wall with an altitude
drop more than 1000 m – 6A c.o.d. (Voronov) was run by
Leningradwers. Piramidalny Peak and Gornyak Summit (5013 m) are
noticed from the number of other summits by the fact that the
routes developed on them relate to the class of combined routes,
whereas all other ones to the rocky ones. Alpinists from
Saint-Petersburg ascended on North-east wall (D.
Sidorov’s route 6B c.o.d.) in 1992 and they gave it this
name. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"
style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>
</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:
justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>It is necessary to
notice Ortotyubek Summit. It’s situated in Aksu Gorge and
has 2 walls: Western and North-west with an altitude drop more than
700 m. <span> </span></span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span> </span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span>6 routes, 2 of them are 6A c.o.d., are
developed on the walls. For the first time the ascension to it was
accomplished by “Planeta” alpine club from
Rostov-on-Don on North-west wall in 1988. The route 6A c.o.d. was
developed on Western wall by alpinists of Saint-Petersburg
(“Papillion” route, Ivanov V.,
1993).</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"
style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>
</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:
justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>The French have grown
fond of this summit. In 1991 young alpinists from France with their
leader Fayver P. developed the route of 5b c.o.d. on it on Western
wall, so-called “French rib” and in 1993 F.
Pallandre’s route of 6A c.o.d. It’s necessary
to note, that the region is well-known in abroad and it has already
acquired the name there. </span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span> </span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span> </span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span> </span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span style="font-size: 1pt;"><br />
<span> </span></span><span><span>
</span>In 1991 the French route was developed on Slesova Peak
also (P. Fayver, “cleft of reorganization”) and
in 1993 – on Kyrkchilta Summit (4507 m) on the right part
of Eastern wall of 6</span>А<span> c.o.d., by L.
Jirion. The first ascension to this summit was accomplished in the
year of 1000<sup>th</sup> Anniversary of Russia
Christening and the summit was called in honor of this
event.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"
style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>
</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:
justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>4 routes of 6A c.o.d.
were developed on Kyrkchilta. Beside the mentioned route these are
Igolkin’s, Skripko’s (1988) and
Grigoryev’s (1992) routes. Ptitsa Peak is remained from
not mentioned peaks, which has a route of 6A c.o.d. The team from
Leningrad under direction of Yevgeniy Mayorov accomplished the
earliest running to Ptitsa Summit of 6A c.o.d. on the spur of north
wall in 1989. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"
style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>
</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:
justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>Karavshin is the
region of masters, and mostly somebody who would like to show his
style or </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"
style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span>develop a new route comes here. As a rule
they advocate within the limits of any
championship.</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"
style="text-align: justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>
</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:
justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span><span>
</span>However the region is the most remembered to those
people, who come here for the first time, not having the experience
of running of such kind of walls. The huge, plumb peaks, which it
seems stretch up from under feet and generate a condition of light
numbness. Sometimes it is changed into trembling feeling of
unreality of occurring.<span>
</span></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"
style="text-align: justify; text-indent:
21.3pt;"><span>Vladimir<span>
</span>trekasia@yandex/ru</span></p> <p
class="MsoNormal"> </p> <p class="MsoNormal"
style="text-align: justify;"><span>
</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:
justify; text-indent: 21.3pt;"><span>
</span></p>
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